Can eating collagen improve your skin and joints?

Collagen was once best known as an injection to plump lips and soften lines. But the wellness industry has found a tastier, less painful way for you to get your fill. Collagen powders, bars, chocolates, chews and liquid and capsule supplements are some of the products claiming to support your body’s collagen levels and keep signs of ageing at bay.

If you’re tempted by this seemingly tasty fountain of youth, let’s ask the question… what on earth is collagen and does eating or drinking it really help your skin and joints?

Why are people eating and drinking collagen?

Collagen is the glue that holds your body together. We have lots of types of collagen, but most is Type-I, which is the main structural protein in skin.

Type-I collagen gives skin shape and strength, but starts to break down faster than your body can replace it in your mid-20s. At this age, skin begins to lose thickness and strength at a rate of around 1.5 percent a year, according to consultant dermatologist and author of The Skincare Bible Dr Anjali Mahto.

Collagen has long been a popular ingredient in skin creams, but there is a question over whether it can penetrate the epidermis (outer layer of skin). Injecting collagen has fallen out of favour, as it doesn’t last as long as some alternative fillers and has been associated with complications such as allergic reactions.

Type-II collagen is a key component of cartilage which surrounds joints, so there are also claims that collagen could help improve joint pain conditions, including arthritis. It’s even rumoured to help those with bone defects which could be caused by aging.

With an aim to improve both joints and skin, an increasing number of edible collagen-containing products are appearing in the shops.

Flavourings and sweeteners are often added to make them more appealing. You can also buy unflavoured collagen powder to stir into juices, smoothies, soups and even coffee.

What types of collagen are we eating?

There are two kinds of collagen used in edible products: whole and hydrolysed.

Whole collagen is broken down into peptides (amino acids, the building blocks of protein) during digestion in the gut, “just like any other protein”, says dietitian Sophie Medlin. It’s claimed these peptides make their way to your skin dermis (an inner layer of skin, containing blood vessels, nerves and hair follicles), replacing or topping up your collagen levels.

Hydrolysed collagen is already broken down into peptides before it is consumed. One theory is this fools your brain into thinking that damage has been done to your collagen, spurring your body to produce more.

Collagen is found in and therefore often derived from animals such as cows, pigs and fish or other seafood. Products containing collagen are not vegetarian and may be unsuitable for people with other dietary requirements.

Does eating or drinking collagen work?

Some nutritionists are positive about collagen supplements. “Normally as a nutritionist I would recommend food first over supplements, but collagen is an exception because most of the studies that suggest a benefit have been done with supplements rather than food,” says nutritionist Fiona Hunter. She adds that supplements might offer collagen in a form that is easier for the body to absorb.

There are some studies which support the effectiveness of eating hydrolysed type-I collagen on improving hallmarks of skin ageing by inducing collagen production, reducing wrinkles and improving skin elasticity and increasing hydration and collagen density in the skin.

However, as Dr Ophelia Veraitch, consultant dermatologist, explained on Dr Xand’s Con or Cure these studies may not be altogether reliable. “There are a very small number of strong skin stem cell labs in the world and none of them have produced papers saying that ingesting collagen supplements can lead to stem cells cycling within the skin.” In other words, the collagen doesn't integrate into the stem cells that will produce collagen in areas it's needed.

Likewise, there’s currently little research which proves collagen supplements could improve joint pain.

Mahto adds: “Evidence for the effectiveness of eating collagen on human skin outside of a lab is scarce, with little solid proof it will survive digestion, travel into the blood stream and make it to your skin. Most of the human studies have been carried out by the people selling the products, so there could be bias.”

Veraitch goes further, stating: “It’s one of the biggest cons in the beauty industry. It’s true that as we get older, our collagen declines. It gets broken down and we produce less collagen. But unfortunately, by ingesting collagen, it just goes in one end and out the other. We don’t integrate that collagen into the areas where the collagen is lost.”

That said, Mahto doesn’t believe collagen supplements will be harmful, especially in the doses available.

Though a healthy lifestyle cannot prevent collagen loss, unhealthy lifestyle practices are proven factors in premature skin ageing.

Dr Mahto recommends eating a varied, balanced diet with a limited amount of sugar, which has been linked to premature skin ageing. She also recommends taking regular exercise, wearing sun cream and not smoking.

Veraitch agrees. “If you were to do one thing to protect your skin, and to help your appearance as you get older, just invest in a good sunblock. It can be a cheap one, but just put one on every day,” she says.

Originally published August 2019. Updated May 2024